This is a very special first release from Nic Peterkin at L.A.S. Vino, and one that has genuinely stopped us in our tracks.

The 2025 L.A.S. Vino Pinot Noir comes from old Pinot Noir vines in Willyabrup, Margaret River, planted around 40 years ago and now among the rare few remaining Pinot Noir vines in the region. After a recent vintage in Burgundy, Nic returned home with fresh inspiration and a clear question: what could these old Margaret River vines really show?

The answer is a wine of fragrance, delicacy and quiet depth. Hand-picked and carefully sorted, the fruit was fermented using a mix of whole bunch, whole berry and crushed berry components, giving the wine lift, texture and savoury detail without losing its lovely freshness.

It is light, aromatic and beautifully refreshing, with red-fruited charm, fine structure and a gentle savoury edge. Serve it lightly chilled and enjoy it with duck, roast chicken, Vietnamese dishes or a simple bowl of pasta.

JJ has given this 18.8/20, which is a huge score from him. For anyone who knows his palate, that is a serious endorsement.

A rare Margaret River Pinot Noir, made with thought, restraint and a little Burgundy inspiration. Very limited.