Nestled in the heart of Wilyabrup, this pristine 30-year-old vineyard grows on rich, gravelly loam soils—its rows so immaculate, not a vine sits out of place. Originally planted by John Durack, whose pioneering family were the first to drive cattle across the top end into the Kimberley, the site is planted entirely to the gin-gin clone of Chardonnay. Known for its tiny, concentrated bunches, the fruit here is incredibly flavourful. After years of persistent asking, we were finally granted the opportunity to work with this remarkable fruit—and it’s been worth every moment of the wait.

Hand-picked in the cool early morning, the fruit is chilled overnight before being whole bunch pressed. Fermentation and maturation are split: half the wine is aged in a mix of amphorae of varying shapes and porosity, bringing layers of complexity through differing fermentation kinetics and oxygen exposure—much like the effect of using a range of oak barrels. The other half rests in traditional oak, adding structure and familiarity. A partial natural malolactic fermentation softens the wine, rounding its edges and extending its finish. The result is a wine of clarity and grace—pure Wilyabrup Chardonnay, with notes of white peach, lemon, lime, green apple, a whisper of cream, and a flicker of flint and struck match. With careful cellaring, it will evolve beautifully over the next decade.