2013 Joseph Dorbon Macvin du JuraAccording to tradition and law, Dorbons benchmark Macvin du Jura is produced from two thirds unfermented must (in his case, pure Chardonnay) and one third marc distilled from his own fruit, raised in his own cellar. Macvin, a beloved local specialty, is rarely non delicious but is often somewhat simple; not so with Josephs, which spends a whopping six years aging in its own separate barrel cellar and developing startling complexity. The up front